UP Fashion: Wakuu Suits- The Bespoke Kitenge Suit Designers on a Mission to Dress POTUS

In 2014, Nick Searra and his buddy, Mark-Daniel Vreeburg walked into a wedding party in Nairobi dressed in kitenge jackets, creating an earth-shattering buzz.

“People kept on asking us about the kitenge jackets,” Nick sits down to tell us. The buzz would spread to Facebook where people kept on asking them about the jackets.

Were they the right people at the right me, in the right place, with the requisite talent and styling?

“We decided to set up the company, Wakuu Suits,” Nick Searra adds, “we are focused on growing and supporting the local Kenyan fashion market by creating jobs and exposure for young designers and tailors.”

The buzz saw the duo (who Nick confesses have no really good taste in fashion) work out a catalogue of designs, and eventually convinced their friends to get on board.

Every Saturday, they would dress up in their kitenge jackets for evening outings and soiree in what they would then term as ‘Wakuu Suits Saturday’.

Rocking up a catalogue of kitenge and a wide range of other African print fabrics, Wakuu Suits are fast becoming the go-to guys for African two piece suits, jackets, shirts, bow-ties and so on.

Sipping on a cold Tusker beer at his immaculate apartment home in Kileleshwa, we quizzed Searra on how he got Game of Thrones actress Carice Van Houten (Mellisandre) to rock a kitenge suit. “It was by word of mouth. We sent a suit to her and she liked it. The rest, as they say, is history.”

Probably as a result, they managed to get a place to showcase their work at this year’s African Fashion Week in Amsterdam that happened a couple days back - the perfect excuse for Vreeburg to miss our interview as he is leading the charge on promoting Wakuu Suits at the fashion week.

These days, when trends blur into a speedy smear, it is hard to predict when something will get vaunted or trashed. The frenzy in Amsterdam has opened even more doors - invites from South Africa, London and Paris Fashion Weeks lay in wait.

UP Magazine’s Vincent Libosso rocking a Wakuu Suits jacket.-IMAGE-BY-KYBE-PHOTOGRAPHY.

Male fashion in Nairobi has traditionally been understated affairs- particularly when compared to their women counterparts. But with Wakuu Suits rising on the horizon, something is slowly but surely changing.

Our journey to acquiring a Wakuu Suits’ tailored jacket starts at Searra’s home that quite doubles well as his office. Here, we are given a wide catalogue of fabrics to choose from. Our measures taken and photographs digitally mapped into the system, then the materials are taken to the tailors in Kibera.

Through a digital system, the team can strategize on the ongoing design and tailoring progress. The photographs and measurements are sent to the tailors who also digitally give feedback of every step.

“We are a full-profit company,” Nick Searra explains. “The best way to promote development is this way so that we can help the community in Kibera slums,” adds the devoted social entrepreneur.

All of these materials are one offs and will never be repeated. The eight mothers in the workshops coax their machines into action, pulling into shape each design presented for the week. The tailors take about two to three days before you can rock your kitenge jacket.

“We are in discussion to have some training sessions for these mothers with the 4th Generation Master Tailor, Roye Dufy,” Nick Searra adds with a soft grin.

Roye Dufy is one of the world’s best and probably most sought after tailor, and his suits go on retail with a starting price of $20 per suit.

“We are planning to apply for funding that will go directly to the mothers in Kibera,” Nick describes the social development aspect of the business.

The company is looking ahead to acquire a digital printing machine that will enable them print their own kitenge designs which will definitely set them apart from the rest.

Wakuu Suits has had great influence since they launched - starting off with their signature men’s collection, and are now moving into full ladies collection, a line of accessories as well as a full t-shirt design collection. If talks go as planned, the company is bringing in Nicola Armtage, a famous Kenyan designer, to handle the ladies collection.

Globally, shops in London, Paris and in Oakland are already warming up- stocking their shelves with the Wakuu Suits brands.

So what is on the horizon? “In 5 years we see ourselves probably with 30 or so staff members, being in retail stores and finally President Obama, POTUS himself- wearing our suits.”

Just like any other business start-up, cash flow, good materials, logistic costs, tailoring ideas and the closed Kenya fashion industry remain challenges Searra and Vreeburg are facing but look forward to overcoming.
As we get up to leave, a nod from the Nick Searra’s house mates on our first kitenge jacket (which Nick points out it is in the house tab), the mood reflects the confidence of Wakuu Suits - stepping into the spotlight in the wonderful and able shoes of these amazing duo