OP/ED Discussion: What Are You Wearing? Mitumba vs The Local Textile Industry

LOYCE ODO - Style & Fashion Writer - MITUMBA

Selling of second hand clothes, otherwise known as mitumba, has been a popular business for as long as I can remember. Not only has it been a catchment area for employment opportunities but also provides unique and high quality apparel.

It was initially intended for charity purposes, whereby charitable organizations in Kenya used to import used clothing from abroad, so as to serve the needs of destitute communities. This was especially after the conflicts in neighboring communities like Sudan, Uganda and Ethiopia, that resulted in increasing populations of refugees in Kenyan camps. Since then, it took a different turn and wooed the rest of the population, hence the birth of the second hand sales. The mitumba business has been used as a stepping stone by many Kenyans who venture into it before exploring other avenues. According to a Reuters report, Kenya imports about 100,000 tons of second hand clothes per year, which makes it a lucrative business to drive the economy, especially any country serious about eradicating unemployment.

Kenyans have been able to look good without having to break the bank. Big brands such as Dorothy Perkins, H&M and other internationally renowned brands have found their way into Kenyan closets at a cheap bargain; most clothes are found in perfect condition fit for daily use.

As much as we ought to support the local industry including local designers and the textile industry, we do forget that these same designers have at one way or the other interacted with the mitumba industry, either as stylists, vendors and even consumers. More so, these local designs are not readily available to the common market. Designers would rather showcase their designs in high end platforms that many cannot access and therefore only being an option for the rich who receive invites for such shows.

Investing in a locally inspired wardrobe is something worthwhile for any person trying to support the local industry and who has an eye for great designs. What matters though is the affordability to the rest of the population. Just how many Kenyans can afford clothes that are actually made in Kenya for Kenyans? With mitumba, one can even revamp a wardrobe with a prize as low as Ksh. 20 for a piece. The textile industry for that matter may be a great endeavor for the Kenyan economy, but quality wise, they have not proved to satisfy Kenyans. There has always been something wrong with mass production in Kenya. Quality has to be compromised. So instead of someone buying a pair of trousers which will fade and tear after just three washes, why don’t they go for a ‘Made in Italy’ second hand that will last a lifetime while still looking dapper?

The local design and textile industry can only go a long way if only three factors are paramount: Quality, affordability and availability.

Only then will Kenyans embrace their locally made designs and in the process, support the textile industry and hopefully one day, the rest of the world will be willing to buy used ‘Made in Kenya’ apparel.

 

SAM OMINDO - Local designer, creative director of the brand ‘Genteel’ - LOCAL TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The Kenyan design & textile industry is quite ready for growth, growth far much greater than that purportedly created by second-hand mitumba imported clothing. There exists enough creativity and innovation bred locally to cater to the unique challenges that our weather and culture presents.

Choosing to embrace local designers not only creates employment, but also leads to uniqueness and freshness in clothing that can easily be sold & shown to the international community as being Kenyan. Our generous use of patterns and artistic display of color is what makes us stand out. These very salient characteristics are rarely (if ever) embraced in internationally made clothes, and if they are they can be traced right to an African mind.

A person who chooses locally made clothes, does himself the justice of letting his unique personality stand out, this also helps nurture further growth in the garment and textile industry. With a potential employment capacity of over 500,000 people, the textile industry would introduce an increased USD 2B into Kenya’s GDP. Some critics legitimately shun local on the basis of high price points and low quality. With almost 65 percent of clothing cost dedicated to imported textiles (fabrics), it’s easy to see why. This does, however, provide an opportunity for government subsidies and incentives on the local textile millers to take effect and generate local fabrics.

Kenya has over 52 textile mills with only 15 operating and at 45 percent capacity. I believe it’s about time we bought local fabrics thereby creating demand. Creating room for local designs and textile milling is an ethical way to claim and spur progress. Local designers will seize mimicking foreign designs and thus progressively come up with artistic, more globally attuned garments colored with the sweat, struggle and story of the African soul. It is unfortunate that Kenya does not have the ideal ecosystem tofacilitate the above. First, most people have not been sensitized to the obvious benefits of locally made garments.

Second, there exist an acute shortage of skilled labor coupled with a lack of access to good machinery. At Genteel we advocate, persuade and encourage the “Bespoke” culture which has proven to be the foundation of successful clothing industries abroad, i.e. England, Paris etc. We endeavor to generously incorporate the culture & persona of each person in the garments that we tailor, this is not to mention the skill sharing arrangement that we have with experienced and skilled tailors to help less skilled interested ones. It’s our desire that in the future we can have more locally made garments exported to international markets, maybe even in the New York Fashion Week.