Panâh is a renowned fashion production house based in Nairobi that offers capacity building programs in the production of luxury quality apparel and accessories. It provides ethical employment opportunities to women and youth. Sustainable economic growth and social empowerment in the fashion industry are keys to Panâh’s plans in Africa. Its employees take enormous pride in producing apparel that is made in Africa and acclaimed internationally.
We met with Evgeniya Khromina of Panâh, to hear about why she set up a fashion production house in Nairobi, her journey with the company, her advice to entrants into the industry and what is coming up next.
How and why did Panah start?
After spending 20 years in corporate fashion industry in New York my husband Morteza Saifi came up with a concept to create an ethical manufacturing company that would train women and youth in producing luxury products and creating sustainable jobs. I felt that this would be an interesting experience and great learning opportunity for both of us.
After initial research, Kenya caught our attention. Projects like ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative already had received great recognition among international designers and fashion community with their work in Kenya. While our first visit to the East African region back in 2012 we visited Kenya and Tanzania to conduct research and feasibility study.
Our observations indicated that Kenya is a robust growing economy with more ease of doing business comparing to its neighbors and with a large pool of skilled workforce. We decided on Kenya being the right environment for starting the Company and almost immediately proceeded with paperwork to establish the business. It was an adventure. Before our first visit we did not know anyone from Kenya or in Kenya. We got in touch with representatives of government organizations in charge of investor relations and few NGOs via email and met with them when we landed in Nairobi.
In recent years Kenyan authorities have made great effort to provide information for investors on online platforms. Although back in 2013 when we arrived we had to learn our way on our own. This was and still is a challenging experience.
What in your background lead you to becoming co-founder of Panah? What path lead you there?
My career path has been built on two personal passions: teaching and business. My first degree is in Teaching English, which allowed me to travel around the world to study and to teach. My second degree in business administration gave me an opportunity to work in business development and marketing. Panah is a family business as it is now, which requires additional skills in balancing work and life.
Why base Panah in Nairobi?
Kenya possesses most developed infrastructure compared to its neighbors in East Africa. Its garment manufacturing industry is one of fastest growing sectors developing under African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) that provide duty and quota free access to U.S. market. 99% of garment factories in Kenya however, produce mass-market apparel items such as T-Shirts, Polo shirts and trousers. This makes Panah’s high standard manufacturing services for international fashion brands a very unique asset to Kenyan manufacturing sector.
What future do you see for the local fashion industry?
I see that future is pretty bright as Kenya has talented and very eager young designers who are interested in building businesses. I would stress that young designers need to work on ready to wear lines vs. made to measure as ready to wear is the business that has potential to grow big. Though this brings us to challenges.
What critical steps need to be taken to secure this future?
I would name education and awareness, number one. Education with regards to new developments in pattern making, garment making, clothing technology on one side; business and marketing skills on the other. Awareness of opportunities in fashion industry as building career not as a “fashion designer”, but as a stylist, photographer, blogger, etc. These people really “make” fashion. Sourcing fabrics and trims and manufacturing is challenge number two. High quality fabrics and trims you have most of the time to import which comes at a price. Very few workshops cater to lower minimums of young designers.
I highly support creating fashion incubators that would facilitate educational and mentoring programs for young designers. I think this model showed good results around the world.
Who is one of the best emerging designers you have seen locally?
Our favorite is Katungulu Mwendwa. Katush got it all: talent, great personality, work ethics. I wouldn’t call her an emerging designer though. She has established herself as industry leader by now. As for an “emerging designer”/fashion brand I would name Cocolili. Cocolili will launch the brand in Nairobi in a couple months. We have worked with them for some time now on developing ready to wear collections: classic staples with a twist of bring African prints for a new African women: bold and beautiful. You can read more about them here: http://www.tdsblog.com/cocolili-collective-movementfor- timeless-fashion/
What’s new at Panah? Any big announcements coming up?
These past few months we have been working with Kellogg Corps MBA (USA) students visiting us in Nairobi on market research and positioning for our own fashion brand: premium travel apparel for world trotters. We are excited to start working on the brand as it has strong connection with Kenya/East Africa – home of safari. We are crunching the numbers now and planning to launch the brand mid next year.
All Designs used in the images in this article are created by LemLem
