In a previous blog post, I declared my ultimate independence from UP’s commercial intentions. Meaning, I could not be bought. However, I did have an addendum to this point: occasionally, I will accept (bend my arm) the odd free meal (sue me), if I was decidedly, “off-the-clock”.

After Sham plied us with two bottles of 2009 Marques de Casa Concha, a delicious Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile, we were most definitely off-the-clock. So, I am going to break one of my rules (mark time and date, because it will not likely happen again); I am going to review the junket. Why? Because Tribe’s new kitchen (formerly Epic) has gone through an impressive makeover, including Jiko’s new BBQ technology (called a vapor grill), new chef, new menu…and, well, I want to be one of the first to say it rocks and mean it.

Jiko’s concept is simple, clean, fun, tasty and charged with a fresh focus on service, starting with a new maître d’hôtel, who performed better than one of Qatar’s First-Class stewards -- knowledgeable and with recommendations that worked. While Jiko intimates some connection to Swahili fusion, blah, blah, blah…don’t get stuck there. It’s an inventive menu that caters to carnivorous appetites. Simple. The ingredients are purely local and seasonal, assembled with lots of imagination: aged grain-fed beef from Naivasha (Morendat Farms), and Daaga fish from Lake Victoria served with a fennel and orange salad and ugali-polenta, for example.

We were giddy with an appetizer of Tiger Prawns, stuffed with leeks, apple bread pudding and beef speck. But the star of the first course was actually a braised onion with confit, fresh thyme and black truffles. Yes, imported truffles. Clever. Then we tried the Vegetable Charcoal-Stuffed Ravioli. Simple sage butter topped it and it was perfectly cooked. (Vegetarians may be slightly disappointed in choice, but Jiko is working on it.) Then there was the meat. Lots of it. I am willing to bet that Jiko has THE biggest T-bone steak in all of Nairobi. It serves two and measures over a foot long. Size is as equally impressive as taste. Aged well, grilled to a perfect medium.

Luca Alvarez Molteni, a fourth generation Italian chef who has travelled the globe, is the man behind the reinvention and newly-minted motivation. He clearly gets what the Kenya appetite is all about, and has put funky, creative twists that make Jiko’s a unique menu in Nairobi.

But Luca’s celebrated entrance into the local culinary scene is already threatened -- by his wife, that is. Mrs. Molteni works alongside her husband at Tribe as the patisserie chef. And if there was anything that could have taken away from an otherwise fabulous main course performance, it would be her amazing desserts. Which we sampled copiously. Okay, I am going to go ahead and go out on a limb and say Tribe Hotel, right now, has the best desserts of any restaurant in Nairobi, perhaps in the country. Try these: Espresso-Soaked Ladyfingers with Mascarpone Cream; Chocolate Souffle with Bailey’s Ice Cream; Lemon Tart and Raspberries. Oh, and don’t forget your Tribe Sampler full of those delicious Italian sweeties.

After all is said and done, go upstairs to The Nest and relax with a big bowl of Sham’s favorite Sheesha. Jiko’s was the perfect way to spend a Tuesday night - not missing anything, perfectly at home. Highly Recommended. Four Stars.